Destination known and looking for jobs!: Amritsar, India: The Border Closing (Jan 11th)

We grab a cab and head back to Haridwar to catch the afternoon train to Amritsar. We are less worried about this train ride since we had discovered the website “cleartrip” which is an Indian version of expedia or Travelocity and booked AC chair class seats. If you ever want to know how to travel by train in any country go to “the man in seat 61” website and it will guide you. So we take our seats and are amazed at what paying an extra $5 per person will get you. The ride is smooth and comfortable and we finally succumb to the chants of the Chai guy and order us a couple of cups of tea which turned out to be delicious, we keep him busy for the remainder of the trip. Eventually a man walks by selling tomato soup, we take the bait and are instantly hooked. I don’t think I’ve ever had soup that tasted so good. Teresa is in complete agreement and I spend the next hour looking over my shoulder for the tomato soup guy to return, when he does I order 4 more soups. His eyes go wide and he replies in astonishment “4”. Oh, yeah! That’s what I said, now give me my soup cause we were now chasing the dragon.

We arrive in Amritsar close to midnight and take a hotel that’s right across from the train station. We have ventured further north and it is COLD. We ask for a space heater and they supply us with the equivalent of a mini hairdryer that has zero chances to keep up with the draft that is coming from under the door and through the AC unit (yeah, that was a handy device to have). Out come the sleeping bags again. I normally do not have a problem with the bags if were staying is a $5 night joint, but since it was cold we upgraded to a $30 a night room and I had issues with the fact that I was still cold. We checked out the next day and made our way into the madness of old town. Teresa posted up at a coffee shop while I wandered around town looking for some new digs. We move into our new pad that was directly across from the golden temple, had no windows (less draft), spotless clean, and had free Wi-Fi for less cash than the last place….score! We book a car to get us to Attari which is the border with Pakistan to see the daily closing of the border. We lay down under the heavy blankets supplied and take an hour nap while we wait for our trip to the border.

30 km later our driver drops us off at the border. We notice that an impressively long line has formed and not knowing our place we ask the guard who instructs us to take a spot at the front of the line. We patiently wait until 4 pm when they open the gates to allow visitors to proceed to the spectator location. We pass numerous security points and notice that people are starting to run for the border. Not wanting to miss out on good seats we make a break for it like there was a Taco Bell at the end. Our western passports allows us the status of MVP and we are ushered to the front seats. As we wait for the closing both the Indian and Pakistani sides are blaring music. The main differences we notice are that the Pakistani side is empty and the Indian side has people everywhere with some dancing in the streets, waving Indian flags, and just hooting and hollering in general. As we wait an Indian sniper takes position next to us and I remember that these two countries have no love lost and have had numerous skirmishes in the recent past. Suddenly the music stops and a guy in a white track suit (I kid you not) comes out and assumes the role if head cheerleader getting the crowd riled up. If the Indian government sees this blog please consider my suggestions:

1. Female cheerleaders with pom-poms doing acrobatics

2. Small remote controlled blimp or alternatively a team of cheerleaders with air gun dropping/shooting Indian flags into the crowd.

3. Beer / snack service

4. A jumbotron showing the action and for instant replays of the more impressive moves

…Think about it India.

So to kick off the closing, guards from both side of the border have a yelling match to see who can keep yelling the longest. Then a pair of female Indian soldier begin to high step it to the gates to secure the perimeter. Oh, It’s show time. Then the male guards go out kicking and spinning and yelling like really loud ninjas dressed like UPS delivery drivers with funny hats. This is mirrored on the Pakistani side, although our view is somewhat obstructed. To be honest I felt bad for the Pakistani side since the Indian side was standing room only and their side was fairly empty. This went on for some time, each side trying to outdo the other side with the crowd (assisted by our jogging suit clad cheerleader) cheering them on. The procession climaxed with the lowering and securing of the flags then the gates were closed for the day thus our chances to slip away to Pakistan were gone. Once the border was closed a stream of young Indian males rushed the field to celebrate their victory and what I assume was shout jeers and insults to their defeated rival, if there would have been a goalpost present I am confident it would have come down as well. We find our driver at the parking lot and make our way back to Amritsar reflecting on the bizarre, yet wildly entertaining event we just witnessed. It was like watching OSU vs. Oregon civil war with snipers, tanks, and the possible use of nuclear weapons.